A Guide to Bespoke Tailoring

​A true bespoke suit to a clothing enthusiast is like Mount Everest to a climber – it represents the epitome of the craft.

You’ve been for the country stroll of buying an off the peg suit, hiked through the craggy valleys of made to measure, perhaps you’ve even dipped your toe in to the crisp mountain stream of online tailoring.

All these pale in comparison to visiting a tailor.

This has been a fact since man first started to clothe himself and to quote Shakespeare “Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, but not expressed in fancy—rich, not gaudy, for the apparel oft proclaims the man.” Which in layman’s terms equates to – buy the best quality clothes money can buy,  because clothes make the man.

​Yes bespoke is an expensive option in today’s ready to wear world, a visit to Saville Row can cost you in excess of £5000 and who can afford that? Not me that’s for sure – sorry Shakespeare.
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You can however find reputable tailors off the Row in and around London and further afield that offer their services at a more pocket friendly price – still not cheap let us be clear, but a bespoke suit is an investment in your wardrobe and more importantly in yourself.

Inspired by my recent tailoring adventures for my recent nuptials (sorry ladies) I thought I would put together a brief guide to those who are thinking of visiting a tailor (and if you aren’t, why not?)

1)      Do your research – read up about your local tailors, have they got good reviews? Do they specialise in a particular style? Call your tailor for a quick chat before you pay them a visit.

2)      Study up on your fabrics; know your tweeds from your super 120. You need to know what you’re asking for.

3)      Look for inspiration – who do you think looks good in a suit? From the classics of Sean Connery and Steve McQueen to more modern men such as Benedict Cumberbatch and Daniel Craig.

4)      Have a style in mind before you visit – much like going to the barber you should never walk in without having an idea of what you want, as you invariably won’t be satisfied with the outcome. What colour do you want? Plain or patterned? 2 piece or 3 piece? How many buttons? There are a multitude of questions and you should at least have an answer for the fundamentals and the tailor can guide you through the rest.

5)      When considering the style you should keep in mind that the suit should be good for 3 seasons, you’ll be making a considerable investment so you want to get as much use out of it as possible – don’t splash cash on a summer linen suit.

6)      Similarly you should keep the style conservative, flashy patterns and colours are all very well for movie premiers but they can limit the use. This doesn’t mean it has to be boring, some of the most classic and stylish suit are subtle in their detail.

7)      When you do finally pay your first visit to the tailor make sure to be dressed accordingly. Rocking up in jeans and your scuffed white trainers is a no no. Wearing a suit gives the tailor an idea of how a garment looks on you, and more importantly wearing proper shoes makes it much easier for the tailor to judge and measure you. Besides who wants to wear old trainers and jeans anyway ?

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8)      Take your tailors advice – it’s good to have a strong idea of what you want but if the tailor advises against it they probably know what they’re talking about, it’s their job – you wouldn’t argue with a mechanic when you’re car’s getting serviced would you?

9)      Take your time - your suit isn’t going to be ready in a week, it will take several fittings at various stages of construction and will most likely require tweaking here and there. Don’t rush, sit back and enjoy the process, after choosing the fabric this is probably the most enjoyable part.

10)   Once your suit is finish it’s good to break it in a little. If you’re having it made for an occasion you might be tempted to not wear it until then, but it’s good to wear it a few times before if you have time to break it in and also to make sure it’s 100% comfortable. I’m not suggesting you take up parkour, but wearing it around the house a little, or perhaps a little showing off at work doesn’t hurt.

For me having a bespoke suit made is a highly enjoyable and rewarding experience, yes it is expensive but this suit should last you a life time. So my final piece of advice is have fun with the details, make it personal, and above all enjoy your suit! The real challenge comes after of staying in the same shape so you can continue using your suit, still this is what alterations are for.

My new suit (pictured) was made by Robert Tracey -  http://www.roberttracey.co.uk/ their shop is in Surrey and the suits are cut in London.

The staff are knowledgeable and helpful  and stock a good range of fabrics which can be cut to suit your style.
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The fabric is a light grey Prince of Wales check by Holland and Sherry, cut to a fitt looked with red detailing on the collar button hole and cuff.

The SilverFox